{"id":1448,"date":"2018-10-11T18:04:02","date_gmt":"2018-10-11T22:04:02","guid":{"rendered":"\/blog\/?p=1448"},"modified":"2018-11-12T13:50:27","modified_gmt":"2018-11-12T18:50:27","slug":"dos-donts-of-vintage-charging-systems-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/dos-donts-of-vintage-charging-systems-part-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Do&#8217;s &#038; Don&#8217;ts of Vintage Charging Systems: Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>We just came back from the annual Barber Vintage Festival in Birmingham, AL and Rick did a couple seminars on vintage charging systems.\u00a0 For those of you not able to attend, we wanted to publish a couple posts to sum up what he had to say:<\/p>\n<p>Let&#8217;s start off with the basic terms that we use: Volts, Amps, &amp; Watts: Volts x Amps = Watts.\u00a0 We&#8217;re going to use a water analogy to explain this concept.<\/p>\n<p>Volts = the amount of pressure in the pipes<\/p>\n<p>Amps = the size of the pipes; basically the volume it can run<\/p>\n<p>Watts = the amount of usable power in a given time\/flow<\/p>\n<p>So the size of the pipe (Amps) x the amount of pressure inside the pipe (Volts) = the amount of usable power supplied (Watts).<\/p>\n<p>Moving on to Good Practices in our Industry.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>You want to make sure you keep all of your connections clean &amp; free from corrosion, dirt &amp; debris.<\/li>\n<li>When making repairs to wiring, ALWAYS make sure you&#8217;re using the correct &#8220;B&#8221; crimp illustrated below.\u00a0 We sell a <a href=\"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/Crimper-11_001\">crimping tool<\/a> that does this &amp; so do a couple other people out there.\u00a0 Just make sure you get one that does the &#8220;B&#8221; crimp!<\/li>\n<li><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-1449 size-large\" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/crimp_graphic-1024x819.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/crimp_graphic-1024x819.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/crimp_graphic-300x240.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/crimp_graphic-768x614.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/li>\n<li>Use the correct wire stripping tool.\u00a0 You don&#8217;t want one that cuts into the actual wire, just strips off the insulation.<\/li>\n<li>Use the correct wire &#8211; don&#8217;t use stereo wire, please!\u00a0 We use crosslink polyethylene in the production of all our parts.\u00a0 It protects against moisture &amp; oil and has a heat rating of 125 degrees C.<\/li>\n<li>Correct solder joints &amp; repairs.\u00a0 When you need to solder your wires, practice a couple times before you do the actual job.\u00a0 You want the solder to mesh into the wires.\u00a0 You don&#8217;t want a big glob of solder or not enough solder so some of the wires are still exposed.\u00a0 See the illustration below for proper colder joints.<\/li>\n<li><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-1450 size-large\" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/solder_graphic-1024x819.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/solder_graphic-1024x819.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/solder_graphic-300x240.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/solder_graphic-768x614.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Basic Charging Systems: Field Coil vs Permanent Magnet<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The field coil system, found in the Honda early to mid 1980s CB750\/900, Yamaha XS650\/750\/1100s and early Kawasaki 3 cylinders.\u00a0 The &#8220;electro-magnet&#8221; is of a variable strength.\u00a0 So it puts out the amount of power the bike is using &amp; enough to keep the battery charged.\u00a0 This is the system that cars are using with their alternators.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-1453 size-large\" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/RAW-21-101-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/RAW-21-101-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/RAW-21-101-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/RAW-21-101-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-1454 size-large\" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/RAW-41-400-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/RAW-41-400-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/RAW-41-400-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/RAW-41-400-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The permanent magnet systems (which mostly all modern sport bikes have moved to) is exactly that.\u00a0 A permanent magnet rotates inside or outside of the stator.\u00a0 The amount of power that comes out is governed by the design of the stator\/rotor and how fast it rotates.\u00a0 The strength level is FIXED, not variable like the field coil rotor.\n<figure id=\"attachment_1460\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1460\" style=\"width: 640px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1460\" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/21-328_display-e1539280855221-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"960\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/21-328_display-e1539280855221-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/21-328_display-e1539280855221-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/21-328_display-e1539280855221-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1460\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stator from a permanent magnet charging system<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Hope this general introduction has helped you guys understand some of the good practices we like to use whenever working with electrical components.\u00a0 We will get into more specific &#8220;common issues&#8221; that we see here all the time with the charging systems on these vintage bikes in Part 2 next week.\u00a0 Stay tuned&#8230;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We just came back from the annual Barber Vintage Festival in Birmingham, AL and Rick did a couple seminars on vintage charging systems.\u00a0 For those of you not able to attend, we wanted to publish a couple posts to sum up what he had to say: Let&#8217;s start off with the basic terms that we&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":1451,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,1],"tags":[109,77,150,5,62,99,151,81,90,76,153,152],"class_list":["post-1448","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-how-to","category-new-from-ricks","tag-barber-vintage-festival","tag-classic-motorcycles","tag-do-it-yourself","tag-how-to","tag-howto","tag-motorcycles","tag-vintage-electronics","tag-vintage-honda","tag-vintage-kawasaki","tag-vintage-motorcycles","tag-vintage-suzuki","tag-vintage-yamaha"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1448","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1448"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1448\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1461,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1448\/revisions\/1461"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1451"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1448"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1448"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1448"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}