{"id":387,"date":"2014-04-26T11:20:11","date_gmt":"2014-04-26T11:20:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/tips\/?p=387"},"modified":"2018-05-24T14:18:01","modified_gmt":"2018-05-24T18:18:01","slug":"recitifer-regulator-signal-wires","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/recitifer-regulator-signal-wires\/","title":{"rendered":"Recitifer Regulator Signal Wires"},"content":{"rendered":"

Many Rick\u2019s Motorsport Electrics Rectifier\/Regulators eliminate what is commonly referred to as a \u201csignal wire\u201d on OE pieces. For example, on a 1981 Kawasaki KZ440, there are 5 wires going to the OE part: 2 yellow wires (AC inputs), white\/red (DC \u201c+\u201d output), black\/yellow (DC \u201c-\u201c output), and a brown wire. The brown wire is the signal input from the battery. The RME piece features only 4 wires; the position where the OE brown wire was is vacant. This is because the RME part is capable of regulating through the DC wires without the sensor input.<\/p>\n

Why is this advantageous? Because a regulator, like any electrical device, is only as good as the information you put into it, and any voltage drop between the battery and regulator on a signal wire can result in a \u201cfalse positive\u201d reading of an overcharge at the battery. To illustrate, here\u2019s a diagram showing a full-wave Rectifier\/Regulator with a signal wire operating properly:<\/p>\n

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The battery in this circuit is charging correctly. However, if corrosion, a poor contact, or any weak point occurs (this can commonly occur if the contacts in the main ignition switch have any kind of wear on them), the regulator will \u201cmis-read\u201d the battery and overcompensate in terms of charging voltage. Here is the same circuit with an oxidized or worn-out contact in the switch causing a .75 volt drop between battery and regulator on the signal wire:<\/p>\n

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The Rectifier\/Regulator appears to be overcharging; however, there is nothing wrong with the component itself, it is simply acting on inaccurate feedback.
\nFinally, the circuit with no connection at all, such as a cut wire:<\/p>\n

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The regulator no longer has any input on the signal wire and thus has no way to properly regulate the battery, resulting in an extreme overcharge. The same rectifier\/regulator thus produces three different results depending on the integrity of the signal circuit. By eliminating the need for that circuit, RME rectifier\/regulators eliminate a potential problem.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Many Rick\u2019s Motorsport Electrics Rectifier\/Regulators eliminate what is commonly referred to as a \u201csignal wire\u201d on OE pieces. For example, on a 1981 Kawasaki KZ440, there are 5 wires going to the OE part: 2 yellow wires (AC inputs), white\/red (DC \u201c+\u201d output), black\/yellow (DC \u201c-\u201c output), and a brown wire. The brown wire is…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1290,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[45,53],"class_list":["post-387","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-how-to","tag-rectifier-regulator","tag-signal-wires"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/387","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=387"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/387\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1412,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/387\/revisions\/1412"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1290"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=387"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=387"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricksmotorsportelectrics.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=387"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}